One of the easiest ways to increase performance is through the use of injectables: nitrous oxide, propane, and water/methanol. In all three, performance is increased, but each one goes about its business in a different way and has its own set of advantages and disadvantages. We took a look at all of them and firgured out how they work, how they make power, and what to watch out for.
Full-Throttle Microswitch: This is an activation switch set up to trigger the nitrous at full throttle. Any type of manual switch may be used for this, and many racers will even use existing switches (such as a horn button) to trigger the nitrous. | 
Bottle Brackets: Used to mount the nitrous bottle firmly in place. | 
Nitrous Bottle: Nitrous bottles come in various shapes and sizes but will usually be in the 10-15-pound variety. The gauge at the top of the bottle measures pressure; nitrous is best used at approximately 900 psi. |
Solenoid: A solenoid is an electrically activated device that blocks the flow of nitrous until the system is activated. Once the system is activated by the driver, a plunger inside the solenoid opens to let the nitrous flow from the main feed line into the nozzle and engine. | 
Wiring: Some amount of wiring is needed for most nitrous kits. This includes wiring for an arming switch to turn the system on, an activation switch for the nitrous itself, and power and ground for the nitrous solenoid. | 
Fogger Nozzle: This is where the nitrous is actually sprayed into the engine. Think of it as a spray nozzle on a garden hose-with a lot more engineering. |
Main Feed Line: The main line is used to connect the nitrous bottle to the solenoids. Different sizes of main lines will be used, depending on the horsepower of the application. | 
Jets: Nitrous jets are inserted into the nozzle and have different size orifices, depending on how much nitrous is to be used. | |