Our Project 300 '87 Ford F-250 got its name from the dollar amount we initially paid for it. Its debut in the February '09 issue ("$300 Diesel") showed us towing our new project home, installing two Optima Yellow Top batteries, changing the fluids and filters, fixing the clutch pedal assembly with JB Weld, and adding a firewall reinforcement bracket. Those modifications got Project 300 up and running, but it wasn't quite ready for daily use. This month we will show you how we were able to make our $300 ride roadworthy and have fun with it at a local diesel club event. Here is what we had to do to get there.
Engine
The first priority with this second wave of modifications was getting the engine running better. We knew the glow plugs were bad because we could hear the controller clicking when we switched on the ignition and it wouldn't start when it was cold. The '87 model year was kind of a sweet-spot year for the F-250. Not only did we get the ZF five-speed transmission, but our truck also came with the improved solid-state glow plug controller. The easiest way to tell what kind of controller you have is to look at the glow plugs. The old style has spade connectors, while the newer version uses bullet ends. The job of the controller is to regulate when the glow plugs get electricity.
Since the fuel injection lines run right over the top of some of the glow plugs, we decided it would be easier to install them when the fuel lines going from the injection pump to the injectors were off (although you don't have to remove them). The perfect opportunity arose when we discovered our return lines were leaking. To put an end to the leaks, we ordered a return line kit from Oregon Fuel Injection. The kit came with fabric-coated hose, O-rings, washers for the injectors, plastic caps, and spring clamps. In order to do the job, we removed the injector lines. We numbered them so they would be easier to reinstall. If we had to do it all over again, we'd use fuel system protection caps (T83T-9395-A) to eliminate the risk of getting crud in the removed lines.
With the engine running better, the next problem was the new alternator belt was flopping wildly just like the old one. To help the situation, we decided to re-route the belt. Instead of having the belt go around the crankshaft, water pump, and alternator, we got a shorter belt and just went from the water pump to the alternator. This setup is a little risky since it takes away the redundancy of having multiple belts going to the water pump. We found the part number for the belt on oilburners.net. We consider this a temporary fix, with the ultimate solution being a serpentine belt swap from a '92 to '94 7.3L IDI engine.
 With our 6.9L's fuel injection...  With our 6.9L's fuel injection lines removed, you can see the location of the glow plugs and how the return lines route. You can kill two birds with one stone by replacing the return lines and the glow plugs on a Ford IDI diesel at the same time. |  After swapping the old glow...  After swapping the old glow plugs with a set of Bosch #80027 we purchased from USdieselparts.com, our IDI fired right up. We didn't use anti-seize, but many people recommend applying a very light coat on the threads before installation. The glow plugs we took out looked like they were installed dry and they came out just fine. Make sure the threads in the cylinder head are clean. Twist the glow plugs in by hand at first to avoid cross threading. |  We used a pick to remove the...  We used a pick to remove the two O-rings on each fuel injector. We also made sure to dip the new O-rings in oil before installing them. |