Once home, the engine and transmission were drained and filled with 10 quarts of 15w40 and nearly 4 quarts of fully synthetic automatic transmission fluid (ATF) respectively. A 3/8-inch extension fits both the drain and fill plugs on the ZF. The brakes were bled in order to remove air bubbles, the multiple V-drive belts were adjusted to adequate tension, and the fuel filter was changed. We considered draining the fuel and putting in fresher stuff, but figured the simple Stanadyne DB2 rotary injection pump could handle it. We put in two Yellow Top Optima batteries, flipped the switch for the auxiliary electric fuel pump, and pushed the little red button wired to the starter solenoid. After a few cranks with nothing significant happening, we added a little ether. That's all it needed, and the F-250 was running. Each Optima battery comes rated at 750 cold cranking amps (CCA). We will need all of that power since our engine has a compression ratio of 21.5:1. With the engine running, the only thing left to do was a test drive. This was not to be, since we could not get the transmission to shift into First, Second, or Reverse.
The Transmission That Wouldn't Shift And The Fuel Pump That Came Apart
Our shifting problem was due to the external slave cylinder not getting its full 7/16-inch of travel. There were three possible causes of this problem. First, the hydraulic clutch system could have air in it, second, the firewall could be damaged and flex where it shouldn't, or three, the pedal assembly itself could be worn and in need of repair. Our truck was in need of a pedal assembly rebuild. If the problem was detected early, new plastic bushings could've solved the wear issue. In our case the magnesium pedal bracket had worn so badly it needed JB Weld to replace the magnesium that has worn away. We decided to order Ford part number E3TZ-7K509-A as a preventative measure against firewall fatiguing. It is basically a reinforcement kit so your hydraulic clutch master cylinder nuts don't get pushed through the firewall.
The mechanical fuel pump mounted on the side of the engine then disintegrated and was replaced with a new one. This final repair made the cheap diesel a strong runner. DP
Should You Buy a $300 Diesel?
Here are a few good candidates for a $300 diesel project:
*A 16-year-old looking for a first car
*A worker hunting for cheap, useful transportation
*A farmer/rancher looking to replace the last truck they drove into the ground
*A racer looking to build a race truck
As a rule of thumb, if you purchase a vehicle for the price it takes to fill the tank twice, you are going to have some work ahead of you. The amount of toil depends on an infinite number of variables, but there are a few scenarios that can make cheap diesels really good deals. The first thing you have to do is ask yourself: why is the owner selling this?
Reasons favorable to the buyer include: financial trouble for the owner, the party is moving cross country, or the wife just wants it off the property. Another situation is the vehicle has something wrong with it which took it out of operation. The problem could be giant and catastrophic, or simple and small. If you can repair the weak link, making the vehicle operational again-you just might have found the key to a cheap diesel.
 This is a wire that short-circuited...  This is a wire that short-circuited and then overheated. Always make sure you have a fire extinguisher handy so your new truck doesn't go up in smoke. |  Here is one of the Optima...  Here is one of the Optima Yellow Top batteries being placed on its side to see if this position makes for a better use of space. Another benefit in using a sealed battery is you don't have to worry about the acid leaking out and eating away at your sheetmetal, wires, or paint. |  Our heater core was leaking,...  Our heater core was leaking, and when the fan was turned on, it sent rusty dust all over the place. Fortunately, it was easy enough to get to-right behind the glovebox. |