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1996 Ford F-350 Power Stroke - Lower EGTs And More Power

1996 Ford F350 Power Stroke Reinstall Intake Tube
After it was cleaned to remove... 
   
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1996 Ford F350 Power Stroke Reinstall Intake Tube
After it was cleaned to remove any debris, the intake tube was reinstalled and the water/methanol injector was screwed into place. The water/methanol line was attached and routed out of the engine bay.
1996 Ford F350 Power Stroke Grinder
A grinder was used to cut... 
   
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1996 Ford F350 Power Stroke Grinder
A grinder was used to cut away some plastic on the intake cover so it can clear the injector nozzle when the lid is flipped open. Changing the fuel filter shouldn't be a problem.
1996 Ford F350 Power Stroke Egt Probe
An existing access hole in... 
   
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1996 Ford F350 Power Stroke Egt Probe
An existing access hole in our tow rig's exhaust brake was used to mount the EGT probe that operates the Varicool controller and the Auto Meter EGT gauge.
1996 Ford F350 Power Stroke Tightening 1996 Ford F350 Power Stroke Installing 1996 Ford F350 Power Stroke A Pillar Removed
1996 Ford F350 Power Stroke Gauge Pod
The gauge pod was already... 
   
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1996 Ford F350 Power Stroke Gauge Pod
The gauge pod was already dry, so the EGT, transmission, and boost gauges were wired and installed. The wires for the Varicool EGT amplifier box were run from the Auto Meter gauge so they can both use the signal from the same thermocouple.
1996 Ford F350 Power Stroke Wiring Boost Line
The factory A-pillar was removed... 
   
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1996 Ford F350 Power Stroke Wiring Boost Line
The factory A-pillar was removed and a hole was cut to allow the wiring and boost line to pass behind the dash. After routing the boost tubing behind the dash, make a loop (big enough so the line won't kink) to prevent the needle from bouncing around in low-boost situations.
1996 Ford F350 Power Stroke Testing Light
A test light was used to find... 
   
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1996 Ford F350 Power Stroke Testing Light
A test light was used to find key-on power leads in the headlamp switch assembly to operate the gauges. A few Phillips-head hex screws, a couple of panels, and the headlamp knob needed to be removed before the dash piece could be unclipped. Make sure you find all the screws before you start prying on the dash surround or it may crack.

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