While it's obvious from the title of our magazine that we're all about performance, this term can mean different things. Sure, you can get a tuner to tweak that Power Stroke for blistering acceleration, but a diesel's strong suit is less about hauling ass and more about hauling stuff up a hill, whether it's a car trailer, boat trailer, or bales of hay.
Given that mission, what's the quickest and simplest way to increase the power output? By opening up the exhaust, of course. Not only that, a free-flowing exhaust system becomes the foundation for any further engine enhancements. After all, you can't shoot the flow of a fire hose through a drinking straw.

Removing the old exhaust system is sometimes the hardest part of the install, especially on an... | 
...older vehicle with rusty pipes. You can use WD-40, JB-80, or another lubricant to loosen bolts, but make sure the exhaust is cool | 
...before you start spraying. Then start removing parts by pulling out the stock muffler. |
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The section with the catalytic converter comes out next. | 
You'll need to support the transmission and remove the frame crossmember to install the new downpipe. |
To put it another way, think of that stock muffler as the weakest link in a chain. Your exhaust-and, thus, power-output is only as good as the smallest opening in the system. But the innards of a factory muffler typically consist of a maze of baffles and a small orifice that squeezes down to a smaller diameter. So even if the rest of the system has 3.5-inch tubing, the spent gasses still have to be forced through a little mouse hole.
In contrast, check out Borla's smooth, 4-inch, mandrel-bent tubing that flows nicely into the company's Multi-Core XR-1 muffler. This unit features a combination of freer-flowing perforated tubes along with insulation to cancel out noise, so the muffler's mellow sound is still within legal limits, with no annoying drone.