Cheap Nitrous Kits - Budget Nitrous

Too much nitrous too soon can put the fire out, but it can also backfire. The best way to avoid this situation is to bring on the nitrous only at full throttle with the boost up and use staged systems if necessary. For our budget system, we're going to play it safe and only trigger it above 20 psi. That way, we're sure to have plenty of fuel and boost when the nitrous is activated.

The last danger is making too much power, and while it might sound like a joke, the rest of your engine must be up to snuff when using nitrous. This means connecting rods, head gaskets, and other hardware must be able to withstand the power you're making. For our Dodge, we knew we were skating on thin ice above about 400 rear wheel horsepower on the stock head gasket, so that will be our imposed limit until we get head studs.

Here's the completed bracket...        read full caption Here's the completed bracket and bottle installation. We ended up mounting the bottle at the front driver-side corner of the bed because we didn't have enough line to mount it back behind the wheel well.	We mounted our arming switch...        read full caption We mounted our arming switch out of the way, on the underside of our dash (arrow). For our activation switch, we're still debating between a pushbutton cord and a full-throttle micro switch.	Johnson finished up the mounting...        read full caption Johnson finished up the mounting bracket, and we got our solenoids mounted. We also connected our feed line to the main (.070 jet) solenoid for the fogger, but we're still waiting on a "Y" fitting so we can hook up our second stage.
To help everything seal under...        read full caption To help everything seal under a ridiculous 900 psi of nitrous pressure, we put Teflon sealant on the solenoids and where the fogger mounted into the intake, since it would be under boost pressure.		Nitrous wiring can be a little...        read full caption Nitrous wiring can be a little complicated, so instead of pictures, we've included this diagram to help you out. The relay is shown because nitrous solenoids can draw up to 10 amps each, which can burn out your activation and arming switches. The activation switch can also be installed on the positive side in line with the arming switch, if so desired.