Alright, you asked for it. And now you're going to get it. Diesel Power is already the leading diesel enthusiast magazine, where readers come to learn about all things diesel-powered. Now we're going to ratchet it up a notch. Starting with this issue, we're going to field all your diesel-related tech questions. If you have a problem with your 6.9L, can't find a part number for your LLY, want to know how to make 400 lb-ft with your VW 1.8L, or just want to know what's the best transmission fluid to use in your 48RE, then this is the place for you. We'll begin this month's installment with some of the more basic questions we've already received. Where we go from here is entirely up to you. The best way to get your questions answered is to e-mail them to david.kennedy@sourceinterlink.com. If you're the type that's more comfortable with the U.S. postal service, send your questions to Top Tech, c/o Diesel Power, 6420 Wilshire Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90048.
Now the disclaimer: Please understand that we can't return anything you send us, and that we reserve the right to edit your letter for length and content. You should also realize that we can't answer every letter we get, but we do promise to read everything you send us. Please try to limit your letter to one question, and obviously, the more information you give us about your problem and vehicle, the better our chances of solving your problem.
UPS Truck Upgrades
Q: I am considering buying a used Grumman-Olson step van (UPS-style) with a diesel (generally 6.5L GM turbo). When I read Diesel Power I see all this advertising for performance parts for pickup trucks. Would they fit in the engine bay of a van? Can I get a 4- or 5-inch exhaust system for it? Upgrade the turbo? I would also want to install a conversion kit to burn used cooking oil. I would appreciate if you could point me in the right direction and/or offer some suggestions.
A: Yes and no. The injectors, pumps, and internal engine parts should interchange. Things like performance computers, air intakes, vegetable oil conversions, and intercoolers may be possible to make work. And then things like a 4-inch-diameter exhaust from BD Power (www.bd-power.com, (800) 887-5030) may only be good for donating parts to your custom setup. Readers interested in Cummins-powered UPS trucks are likely to have similar experiences but should benefit more from that engine's wide aftermarket support.
Power Stroke-Powered Cop Car?
Q: Is it possible to put a diesel engine into a Ford Crown Victoria? And if so, what would the logistics of such a swap entail? What about the suspension? And the driveability? I know that this sounds crazy, but I really love diesel engines and the potential power that comes with them. But I really don't want to drive a Ford F-250 (unless you know of any other truck that Ford offers that comes with a diesel) and I really love the Crown Victoria. In my world, I would drop a Power Stroke into the engine bay of the Crown Victoria and have the Banks or Bully Dog up the power. I am really enthused about your article and the Chrysler 300C possibly coming to the United States with diesel power.... Now, if I can only convince Ford to do the same with the Vic's
A: Sure, anything is possible-even your Power Stroke-powered Crown Vic. There will be obstacles, however. The first one we see is packaging; the second is wiring. The third, and most important, is cost!
Both the 6.0L and 7.3L Power Stroke engines are significantly larger (and heavier) than the 4.6L gasoline V-8 we suspect your car has now. We're being optimistic here, but with a custom oil pan, some framerail modifications, a fabricated set of engine mounts, and a lot of firewall massaging (to clear the exhaust down tube) either Ford diesel could be made to fit. To keep things as simple as possible, we'd go with an early (pre-'99 7.3L) Power Stroke mated to a two-wheel-drive diesel truck E4OD automatic transmission. That way you won't be forced to mount an intercooler and the electronics will be somewhat simplified.
Assuming you get the engine and transmission in the car and hooked up to the cooling system, you're still going to be up against a mountain of electrical issues that will need to be resolved before you even get to fire the engine, let alone get the gauges to rear correctly. And you can forget about the factory rear axle surviving behind the diesel if you were to ever try and turn up the power.
Rest assured we'll publish any and all letters from readers who have successfully completed a similar swap, cause we know they're out there!
More Diesel Van Questions
Q: Has Diesel Power done any write-ups on the Ford Diesel E350 van? I have a 2000 model and would like to know if anyone makes anything for it to make it run better than it does stock. Hope you can help me out.
A: We've done some testing with Bully Dog Technologies' Dominator system with Outlook monitor and 4-inch cat-back exhaust on a 6.0L Power Stroke E-350 van. The results were impressive: 340 hp and 680 lb-ft of torque at the rear wheels. It's important to keep in mind, though, that most performance chips are calibrated for the pickup truck applications. The van architecture is similar, but the power outputs are always lower. Our recommendation is that you call around and ask your supplier of choice if it recommends its program for use in a van. For your 7.3L application we'd recommend you give a call to TTS Power Systems (www.ttspowersystems.com, (310) 669-8101). As we know, it has done some work specifically for van applications.
Using Un-Taxed Diesel Fuel
Q: I look forward to reading your magazine every time I get it in the mail. I have a good question for you. We have a 2000 F-250 super duty 7.3L that stays on the farm and never goes on the road (mainly because of body damage) but the truck runs great and gets the job done. I know it would be illegal, but would off-road non-tax diesel hurt the engine in any way? Everyone tells me the only difference between on-road and off-road is the color. Is this true, or is there a difference? If so, what is the difference? And what damage could it do to our truck?
A: Currently, the only consistent differences between the two fuels is that "on-road" fuel is "clear" and has anywhere from $0.50 to $1.00 per-gallon tax added to the price. "Off-road" diesel is dyed red to signify that the fuel has not been taxed for road use and is, subsequently, illegal to use in a vehicle operated on public roads. It is unlikely that your Ford's Power Stroke engine will notice the difference at all between the two fuels, but nationwide spot-checks of diesel vehicles' fuel tanks by the Highway Patrol make this a risky proposition for motorists. Come October 15, 2006, on-road diesel fuel will have significantly lower sulfur content to work with the new diesel-engine emission systems that will be phased in for the '07 model year.
Duramax Swap in an 8.1L Truck
Q: I got a pretty good deal recently on a 2001 Chevy HD crew cab shortbed 4x4 with a 6-inch lift and 35-inch BFGoodrich tires. It's got the 8.1L big-block gasoline engine, and I was wondering about swapping it out for a Duramax. I do a lot of towing and would really like to improve my mileage. The truck's got 123,000 miles on it, but it's in great shape, and I'm thinking, even with the price of the engine, the conversion would be a whole lot cheaper than a new truck. What do you think?
A: We'll give you this much: The Duramax swap you propose is probably the cheapest Duramax swap people can do. But it still may be easier and more cost-effective to sell your 8.1L pickup and buy a factory Duramax truck. Assuming that's not an option, let's look at where you should begin.
You are ahead of the game in that the front and rear axle, transfer case, frame, transmission, suspension, and sheetmetal are all shared between the Duramax and 8.1L trucks. It's still going to be our recommendation, however, that you begin your swap with a wrecked Duramax truck of the same year. That way you'll get all the little pieces that will nickel and dime you to death if you have to buy them one at a time.
The engine will bolt-in with the Duramax engine mounts, attach to your Allison transmission (with the diesel torque converter), and clear the Duramax-specific radiator, intercooler, and radiator hoses. Again, wiring will be the most difficult part, as you effectively trick your 8.1L truck into thinking it's a factory diesel-powered machine. Until the aftermarket develops a stand-alone Duramax computer and wiring harness (hint, hint!) this is really your only option.
Synthetic Diesel Oil
Q: I currently own a 2005 Dodge Ram 2500 and was looking into Amsoil fully synthetic products. Amsoil suggested I run its Series 3000 5W-30 synthetic motor oil. I am shocked it recommends such light oil. It also sells a 15W-40 but says I will have better benefits with 5W-30. I live in Wisconsin, where temperatures go between -30 and 90F. Could you give me any suggestions on what to run? I just subscribed to your magazine and think it's awesome.
A: Many enthusiasts make the switch to fully synthetic lubricants because they know it is the best stuff that money can buy. The advantages are, traditionally, lower mechanical wear, less friction, and better extreme-temperature properties.
It is likely that your Amsoil representative is recommending the lower viscosity oil because his test data shows that it will handle the loads and temperature cycles that conventional 15W-40 motor oil does. And Amsoil is correct in saying that you will gain the benefits of a lower-viscosity oil (quicker oiling, better fuel economy, and less hydraulic drag in the lubrication system) with the 5W-30 oil. If you look at your owner's manual, however, you'll probably find that Dodge (and Cummins) recommends 5W-30 oil be used only when you operate your truck in temperatures below 30 degrees Fahrenheit. So, here's the linchpin that we can't agree to: If you use 5W-30 motor oil (even top-quality Amsoil synthetic oil) when the engine manufacturer recommends 15W-40-and heaven forbid you have a lubrication problem-you could find yourself picking up the tab for a repair that may have otherwise been covered under warranty. Our recommendation: Run the 5W-30 Series 3000 synthetic oil as soon as it starts to get below freezing outside, and run the 15W-40 Amsoil in the summer when it is (relatively) hot out. That way you'll get the benefits of the synthetic year round, you're warranty will stay intact, and you won't have to wonder/worry if you're doing the right thing.
Real Power Figures
Q: Hey! First off, great magazine! I've read them all, and when I'm done with them I send them to my older brother. One question I have, though, is that I've heard that different diesels (Power Stroke, Cummins, and Duramax) rate their output at different places (either the rear wheels or at the flywheel). I know that at the flywheel the output would be greater before it's reduced by the drivetrain, so I was wondering if you guys knew anything about it or what manufacturers rate at which spot. And if it does rate at different spots, what is the rear wheel torque and horsepower of all three? I was talking with a friend about how a Power Stroke rated at 560 lb-ft could pull a 5,000lb trailer to 60 mph almost 3.5 seconds faster than a Duramax rated at 590 lb-ft of torque, which is almost 2 seconds faster than a Cummins rated at 600 lb-ft with the same horsepower rating. How is this possible?
A: The truth of the matter is that all three manufacturers rate their diesel engines' output at the crankshaft. The numbers are generated based on a procedure authored by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) to provide consistent comparison between makes and models. The reality is that the horsepower and torque numbers you see in ads and watch on television are somewhat "tuned" by the marketing departments that work for each truck manufacturer. That's why Diesel Power magazine spends so much time taking vehicles to what is known as a chassis dynamometer.