There is a dizzying array of aftermarket products available today for the diesel enthusiast. From the mundane to the exotic, there are products being engineered that can deliver unbelievable performance and add to the power and efficiency of your vehicle. Sometimes, it's hard to know how to narrow down the options, or even just where to start. So, if you want to know how to spend your first $50, your first $100, or even your first $1,000, you've come to the right place. Our list won't work for every single diesel owner out there. But, it's what we'd tell you to do if you were, say, our brother's neighbor's boss who just bought a new diesel truck and wanted to make it run stronger. Take a look.
Step 1: Exhaust System
The stock exhaust on your truck uses small-diameter pipe, typically with some odd bends and pinches, which, combined, make it difficult for the engine to push the exhaust gases through quickly and easily. A good aftermarket exhaust uses larger diameter pipe (typically between 3-1/2 and 5 inches outside diameter) with as few bends and turns as possible to exit these gases more efficiently.
A high-flow exhaust system provides a number of benefits. The first, of course, is better sound. Plus, with better breathing comes the ability to support improved horsepower and torque. This system will also aid in keeping the exhaust gas temperature (EGT) down, which adds to overall performance and will help extend the life of your engine.
If your plans include performance upgrades like computer chips, electronic programmers, or turbocharger modifications, then a high-flow exhaust is essential. These types of upgrades are designed to recalibrate the air/fuel mixture in your engine to produce more power. And while they can do wonders for overall performance, they also create more heat and exhaust gas than the stock exhaust system is designed to deal with effectively. As with any engine, heat is bad. Heat will kill performance, and over the long run, it will kill your engine. So, go to a high-flow exhaust. You'll breathe easier.
Step 2: Computer Chip, Programmer, or Box
The performance parameters of modern vehicles are governed almost exclusively by that little black box called the electronic control module (ECM). Within this electronic monster lay endless lines of computer code that direct all the electronic functions on your truck. Not surprisingly, original equipment (OE) engineers have to calibrate the engine to less than their true potential. This is done to meet durability, emissions (set by our government), and fuel economy requirements-leaving lots of fun and power tightly locked away.
One of the most effective ways to unlock the hidden potential in your truck is with an aftermarket computer calibration from modules that essentially rewrite the rules your truck plays by. Typically, they adjust the amount (as well as timing and pressure) of fuel that is injected into the cylinder to increase performance. Turbo boost pressure and transmission shifting may also be altered for noticeable improvements in overall performance. For vehicles without removable chips, you can simply pull the ECM out of your truck and have it re-programmed to optimize the fuel and timing curves throughout the entire powerband. Either way, previously untapped torque and horsepower await.
For those who enjoy tweaking their own engines, there is a wide range of programmers on the market that allow you to program the computer yourself. The best ones come with software that walks you through the process and explains each action as you go along. Often, these programmers also include a built-in scan tool that will read and clear diagnostic codes.
Step 3: Air Intake Kit
All diesel engines require unimpeded airflow to perform at their best. Quite simply, the more air you can flow through an engine, the more oxygen will be available for burning fuel, and the more power you will make.
The stock air intake on your truck typically restricts airflow in two ways. First is the design of the intake box itself. Most trucks use an air inlet that draws in air from either the inner fender or the radiator bulkhead to meet the manufacturer's standards for induction and drive-by noise. This can dramatically limit the flow of fresh air to the engine. Second is the high-capacity paper filter element inside the box, which tends to slow the flow of air streaming into the intake even further.
Fortunately, this is an easy fix. There are any number of aftermarket companies now that offer complete air intake kits that replace the entire airbox with a high-flow system. These typically include an oiled, cotton-gauze (or synthetic) filter that, even when filthy, will flow more air than the paper element ever could. This upgrade will translate to better air/fuel ratios, greater engine efficiency, and more usable horsepower and torque. This is a simple upgrade and one that you will feel immediately. Throttle response will be sharper, and your gas mileage should go up just a bit.